Here you will find helpful tips and hints from experience of beginners care for your new bunny. When you've finished reading, just close the window. Enjoy!

Tips for the beginner:



1. Read all you can about your specific breed of rabbit. Read books on basic care, diseases, prevention of illness and anything else you can find to help you with your new rabbit. Also talk to some breeders, get as much information as you can before you purchase the new rabbit.

2. Consider becoming a member of The American Rabbit Breeders Association A.R.B.A Even if you don't show, it is still a good idea.

3. Purchase the best stock you can afford from the breeder you have selected. It isn't a bad idea to research your breeders somewhat before you buy either.

4. Ask questions before you buy. Most breeders are very eager to answer any questions you may have and are helpful if you just ask.

5. Don't be surprised if a breeder won't part with their "very best animals". Most breeders have worked very hard to get the quality stock they have and don't generally sell their best. As with all things, if you are patient, you can locate a breeder and the "best" is often worth the wait.

6. Don't overfeed your new rabbit. Check with the breeder you purchased your rabbit from as to how much you breed should be fed. Also check to find out what Brand of feed they have the rabbit on currently, it is always a good idea to wean them onto new feed gradually to prevent diarrhea. If you ask the breeder you purchased your rabbit from for a small container of the rabbits current feed to mix with what you will be feeding, most breeders will gladly give it to you

7. Do your best to keep water bottles, cages, and food dishes very clean! It will help prevent illness. Keep good breeding records and always handle your rabbits. They will become accustomed to you handling them and will enjoy it as much as you!

8. In the summer time to cut back on Flies and urine smell, I add 2 capfuls of Imitation Vanilla, or Pure Vanilla extract, whichever I have, to a gallon of water and use this to water the buns. It helps tremendously on the flies!!

9. For a first breeding, a doe should not be any younger than 5 1/2 months old. You are taking a chance if you breed before this. Bucks generally breed by about 6 months of age. To avoid injury to your buck, never take him to the does cage. It is best to take the doe to the bucks cage when breeding. It is also a good idea to only breed animals that are in good condition. You don't want to breed an animal that is ill or underweight.

9. I have also found that adding a Tbsp. of Apple Cider Vinegar to your water for does, and using it for 3 consecutive days tends to help "get them in the mood" if you are waiting to breed. It has worked on most of my does, some are just very stubborn!

10. Stuck kits is another experience I've had first hand. It's best to have someone else to help hold the doe for you! In the process you need some Vaseline or KY jelly. Place the Vaseline or KY jell around the opening of the vagina, as the doe has her contractions, you must pull ever so slightly on the kit that is stuck. ONLY pull with her contractions so you don't pull the kit apart inside your doe and cause infection. If you can't see the kit at all, but you can see your doe straining, let her go a while longer to see if she can get the kit out. It will eventually pass on it's own. After all is said and done it is best to give her 3cc of penicillin for at least 3 days to be sure you catch any chance of infection. At the same time you should give some type of yogurt to replace the necessary bacteria for digestion your bunny needs, as the penicillin will kill this as well as any infection. You can purchase a box of yogurt chips, some Wal-Marts carry them or you can purchase Plain Yogurt and feed it to your bunny. Most bunny's will lick it from a spoon, however there are the "stubborn" ones. If you should have a stubborn bunny, just use a 3cc syringe and feed the yogurt through it twice a day.

11. Make sure you've checked your rabbit out well before purchasing it. Make sure it is free of disease or illness and in good condition.

12. Have nest boxes available at approximately 26 days to ensure if the doe kindles on the 28th day, like some have been known to do, the kits aren't born on the wire. Check to be sure the doe isn't soiling in the nest box prior to the actual kindling.

13. I've also found if you look at the kits underside (belly) the day after they are born, a doe will have 6 little white spots, which will be tits as she matures. A buck does not have these when it is born. This is one way to sex your litter they day after they are born, so you basically know wether or not you want to keep it. Especially if you want does and end up with a litter of bucks. I've found this method very effective, I have not been wrong yet with sexing my kits this way, however a light under colored rabbit is a bit harder to sex at this stage!

14. This is a way to save kits using my "plan" to use in very severe cold weather. As soon as the doe kindles, provided you find the litter before they are already dead, I bring the nest box into the house. I have a room with a big cardboard box in it I use for the nest boxes I bring in. I take the nest box back out to the doe once in the morning for her to nurse them, and once at night. This has worked so well for me, I have saved soo many litters using this technique that I wanted to share it with others. I used to bring my cages, and all in about 1 week before the does were due to kindle, however once the weather got warm I had to manage to move everything around again. This way the only thing I move is the nest boxes, and my does do very well with this method. The key point is to handle your does! And above all make sure you check the nest boxes even in good weather, this way your does get used to you taking the nest box out and handling the babies. They learn to understand that you aren't hurting their babies.

15. Once the kits are out and about around the cage, it is a good idea to clean the nest box, usually at about 2-3 weeks of age is good to do this. Then depending on litter size, once a week for larger litters, once every other week for 1 or 2 kits, for more kits clean the next box more frequently.

16. Personally, I always check my nest boxes and the kits as soon as they are discovered. You must make sure you've handled your doe in order to due this though! My does don't mind me being in their nest boxes, so I am always messing with them and checking for dead kits. It also helps to set the doe at ease I'm not going to hurt her babies.

17. I personally don't wean kits until they are at least 6 weeks old. If you have a runt, personally I usually wean the rest of the kits at 6 weeks and leave the runt on another week, just to ensure it gets the extra boost to catch up.

CONGRATULATIONS! Well now that you've got your new bun home, wish you well and good luck! Remember there are lots of breeders out there who are willing to help you in taking care of your new bunny! Tiny Tots is one of them! If you have any problems, questions, or need some advice, don't be afraid to ask! You can always email Tiny Tots with your concerns too, we'll get back to you!
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